Jewel setting tool



J. H. PAYER JEWEL SETTING TOOL Filed Jan. '7, 1930 FIG. 7.

INVENTOR. A lannb H F'aer' ATTQRNEYS.

Oct. 6, 1931.

FIG. 1.

` Patented Oct. 6,1931 p 3 The present invention relates to tools lfor Asetting*precious stones vand more 'specifically l Laatse? .moon n. Pinnen,v on PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA -JNWEL SETTING 'rooL .xppiibatioamed"January '2,v 1930. semi No. 419,183.

toan improved bead raising tool. Y

Y The primary objectief the invention is` to provide anfimproved tool f of thisjo'haracter `serving asa combinedtool for raising, shapingand inishing of'around, clean cut bead thru .one operation of, the,"graven` j Bead-raising ltools ory gravers asnowyin j 10.

Common use in the diamond setting trade,'a're y y"offtvvok general shapes'vdepenjding upon the individual shape'and liking of the user, one shape ybeing a half round and the othera pointedor triangular-shaped tool. In use Tof both ofthese types of bead raisers the metal isfiirst raised by cutting avgroove in the metal and piling the metal up overthe edge of the Y vstone being set. AThis beadso'formed is voi irregular shape and whereas a neat-lyshaped round bead-is desired, itbecomesnecessary to clean 'and shape thebead. This `requires.

.- much time and labor. y ln raising of thebead, the bead will also remain connected'at both sides with `the metalfat" the Vforward end of [25 the groovefrom whichthe bead is raised, and

these webs inuSt-also'be moved inthe finish-f ,f ,ing ofitebead.

fIt is therefore a further objeetof 'thein- ,Y ,7.41. vention to provide an improved stone setting V` 30 precious stones andatthe same time produce toolwhich willgreatly expedite the settingof 'A urtherobjectof theinvention is to provideanimprovedtool'otthis'pcharacter which whilelturningthe yIlfletal'over the stone for. .f formation of the bead' will sever. the meta-l at both Sides 'o-:Ethebead..Y j

vA further object ofthe invention `residesin 40' the provision of a toolfofsthis,character which thru one operation of theuser simultaneously v cleansthe bead-'With "one stroke in bending it l overrv the stoneresulting in agreatsaving in Y f time andilabor cost; y f n v f 15 `Othervobjects "and advantages of theiinvention will be apparent :during the course of the following detailed idescri-'pti'on,V taken in conN vnectio'n' with' the accompanying dra-wings forming apart of 'this specilioation and ink 5o v f which drawings:

Figure 1 is a central longitudinal section thru the improved tooL Figure 2 is a side elevation of the chuck shown removed from the holder and rshowing the setting rail in position in the chuck.y

ligure 3 is a side elevation of the setting rai Figures v and 5 are enlarged transverse sections on the respective lines in Figure 1.

Figure 6 is a transverse section on theline V'6"--6 of Figure l.

Figure 7 yis tool. l j j t Figure 8 is a view showing Vthe manner in which the beadsare formed for setting a stone a side elevation ofthe improved y in a mounting.

In` the drawings, and wherein similar reference characters designate corresponding parts thruout the several views, the letter A may designate a suitable holder and- B the improved setting'rail. V f

The holder'A for removably receiving the rail'B includes a tubular stem or shank portionV lObeing internally threaded at its lower portion as at 11. Secured to the upper end 5 l ofthe shank 10 is a handle 12 preferably provided with a socket 13 for receiving the upper end ofthe shank. The handle may be secured to the shank by means of a screw 1K1 threadedinto the upper end of the shank 10.

Threaded into the lower endl of the tubular shank 10 is a chuck 15 having anexternally threaded upper end 16 for threaded engage-l ment .with the threads 11. The jaws 17 and x which in the example shownare four in numberpreferably forma tapering lower end 18 above `which is formed a tapering shoulder 19.r Eneircling the intermediater portion-'of the 4chuck 15 is a sleeve 20`provided adjacent its upper or inner end with an inwardly proj ecting lug 21 for itting in a groove 22 formed longitudinally in the chuck 15 and opening 4 at the inner end of thechuck. The innerend of the sleeve 20 has a bearing fit against the lower. end of the stem 10 and the vouter end ofthe sleeve is flared outwardly as at 23 for engagement with the tapering shoulder 19 rwhereby the jaws 17 are moved into gripping engagement with the rail B. The lug-21 prevents rotation of the chuck 15 when the shank flOii's rotated foropeningand closing thejaavs 'Y 17.y vTheehuek l-has an opening 24 extend-y ing entirely therethru for reeeivingtlie rail ner or .eon'caved sideof the eliann'elbeing of I U-shapev providing arounded bottoni 26. The 1Q outer surface of the'l rail isofsubstantially;Ve,

' AShapeandformed With the arcuate surfaces l' 28 merging into a'sharp base edgeBOg" TheY outerA or Working end of therail is beveled 'olie V as at 32 thus formingai'Working'endforI cuttingvand. turning the metal.

- oneof the chuckravs is.

nelofthe'jrail Bf The-j diametrioally opi- This' rib 34: extends' heyondthe ylower or outer Y Y2K'jfand terminatesj shoitfdistanej inivarc from the' beveled-Worlringend *"'llii'sex-V Y the yreinforcing'extension '36, extended to ,Y Y tending rib portion `Y-aets asa reinforce'- 'n uentfor the proj eetl' ngpofrtion ofVV therail B andallows the railto be e'xtendedfa suioient .distanoebeyond thefcliuek so thata Yclear'viewy Amaybe-hadof the vvorkbeing operated upon. f 1 Sino'ethe rail B in `actual practice Will-hinre- "a Across sectional dimension of about' lg", it

Willreadilybeseenfthe v'dein raloilit'y oij' having '"pointfrelatively closer-to the Working endiof thefrailf! kBy havingthe rib leng'age therail for a'rsubstantial portionof its length allows `foi/ fthe ,to tightlygrip the rail. This llgllt'-A gripping ofthe rail A by vthe f Chuck s fnecessaryfoviing yto the factftht vvhenthe 'while raising thejb'ead, bvthe roundedfbottoin rail y isA in use2 considerable fpressure minstv be applied tothe rail in loothy a forward; diieof, K "tion and vs'idevvise. when `1n`oldingthe7headp f lnFigureS hasbeenflustrated .an ,example l voftheuse-ofthe:toolior setting a stone Dina' 'v j.. mounting designated'bythe;letterE.;v With use ofthe tool.; having the j*channel-sh'aped rail,- the heads Ciinay'beg-raised, ,oleaned,and i 'shaped ivvith:oneoperation. In usel of they 26 along the inner :sideoi'l the railgllAs ythe ignite nieuwe the amie., the sides f the' ivillhe'fornied not formed thruout t Yitsglength and along'theopening2Q;with a Y' [rib Si of a sliapeltosnugly lit yWithin the. Chan- ,posare-fogne jaw pfviaea Wahine" rib-ei vmaybe provided along itsinnerside Withja Ags'uitalole groove 3.5 conforming to the enter-1 nail shape of' the .rail `along the base edge 439.

,i"'I'ola'im:l Q A Y '-f 1 7. Ina bead raising-tool, Vafrail ofchannelf shapeV cross setion" and having`- afbeveled Working "end, and a 'holcler'forgithe 'rail' embeveled ends 32 vvvill out into `the metal at both sides,v of the beads at the -innerkends kof the groove 5.0 thereby separating the beadsexcept for a portion atthe bottom of the groove 50 and 1presenting a' clean cut rounded bead. Thusitwll beseen that with a forward move- 'ment'and tliena rocking movement of the railovferthefstone that a clean out round bead requiring further` cleaning and shapingv `Y vllVhile: the :specific cross. sectional Ashape of 1 the 4eliannel-shajoedl railB hasbeensliovvn'as 'hfiviiiga substantially U-shaped inner contou'rfandgoil V-shapeat its outer surface, the se'etional-'shapeof *the* rail may loe varied vslighi'fly"so longias 'theV1 'rail isfksuostantially Cli-annelfshapje or"` provided alongv (mesideV with tunable greove The ranseiwiuins heinade dierent sizes for the'pu'ripose'. of raisingflarg'e- Vand small' loeads; Itk isy also to hejundrstood thatlany"V preferred typeffof holdervmay be substituted forthe'liolder may beiemplvedforladjufably gripringthe `s the railB becomesvvorn thru 'use and fresharpening of the Working enfd'i32, the Chuck niaylbe' released and the. railV Jred o'utvvardly ythru the Chuck' to the desiredposition found moet@practical for the"l individual n user. The

Vand that means other thana-ohuolr as shown hollowgishank 10' 4permits" of the holder1 ae; i"

commodatingfa relatively long rail; 1

Frointhe foregoing it Will be ppflent that olosedfiwhereby thefgbead loeing"raised is animproved bead raisingtoollhas loeendis-V r Vgleaned With-a 'single' stroke in bending the "bead over *theI ystone-y beingf set yfand 'therebyl eliminating the vcostlyl' cleaning andlshaping -Operetonardnarily required with thefprS-T ent typesof head raising tools-to fproduc'e ,a lilghgjgrade `piece .Off Work. It vvilll also"` be appa'renti-,hat `vthe specific" formation of the railmakes it possible for thel single toolftobe usedfor raising, forming andjeleaning'ofthe bSClS thru a' forward and then; 'a' 4rocking over the stone.' yA'novel,Construotionhas also been disclosed whereby therai'l heldV ventionor' theiseope ofthe `following olaims.

bod)dirigia-` tuhular stein,r` and faffchuck carried by the lovver endv of thee-stemrv and thru Which the .vrailjextends int-o Jtliejtuloulai` stem,y Said ohuelr having a rib [formed longitu'dinally l llo ementfof 'the tool .infgl'ending' the bead v A y *Without departing from thes'pirit ofthe'inimproved vtoollthe]rnetal of the mounting 'f l'is Y groove@ as at 5:0 f thru.. movement i Iof the Y Working edge BSZ/toward, the` stone This e ,mQVelnSnt'Ofthj tOOlQQW-rdthetehe raisesy the metal"ormingtheibeads@ and'afterfthe grooveQ hasl'been'reut for a proper. dist-ence, frolrrtli'estone' theltoolv is swung upwardly-:at Y an anglefoverthestorie lthus turning the metal f over thejstone v toiform the bead C.' .Rounding of the` bead fis'simultaneouslyybeing,:eiected along'lthe;.inner side .o oneljavv thereof' for 'engaging infthejjohannel side-of the rail; Y

T2; :In 2L-.bead raising tool, aehannelflike rail havinga beveled Working end, and; .a

Ai' y holder for the rail embodying a tilblllarsfem y a chuck threaded into the lower end of the tu- -f o bular stem and having a passagewa longi-' '.ftudinally therethru, said chuck em odying 5 yieldable jaws for clamping engagement with Ythe rail, and a rib formed along the inner side ofone jaw,z for itting in the channeled side of of the rail.VK i i v3. In a bead raising tool, a channel-like 10 railhaving a beveled working end, and a Vholder for the rail embodying a tubular stem, a chuck threaded into the vlower` end of the tu- 'bularstem and having a passagewaylongi- @.ltudinally therethru, said chuck embodying l5 vyieldable aws for clamping engagement with the rail, and a rib formed along the inner side l A" of one jaw forfitting in the channeled side of `the rail, said rib projecting beyond the end of i vthe chuck to a pointl adjacent the beveled 20 working end of the rail. 'j

4. A bead raising tool comprising a chanj nel-shaped rail having a beveled working f end, a holder for the railembodying a chuck thru which the rail extends with the working- 25 end projectingbeyondthe outer end of the l chuck, and a rib formed inwardly of the chuck for fitting in the channel-side of the rail and projecting beyond the outer end of the chuck. Y

30 5. A jewel holding prong raising and orming'means comprising a rail of channel-shape in formation and having a beveled working end,'said rail in cross section being substantially U-shaped at its 'inner sidev and substan- A tially V-shape at its outer surface to produce a penetrating point while maintaining a `forming curve at its inner side.

JACOB H. PAYER. 

